Water is crucial to desert gardens, but the nature of the desert is to be miserly with water. Now's the time to start thinking and planning water-wise solutions for irrigating and water usage on your desert garden.
One of the most important desert garden chores you can do now is to start preparing for spring by thinking of ways to conserve water, direct it to the plants that need it, and save it for future use.
If it's been unseasonably dry then you're going to need to water. Even in winter, I usually water my desert garden once a month when it's dry. In the early spring, I generally increase it to every two weeks, and then once to twice a week in summer (depending on the amount of rain we get during the monsoon seasons).
In addition to direct watering, now's the time to turn your attention to water retention, to direct water onto your desert plants, or to save it for later use.
Swales and berms: Swales are structures you can do yourself, using simple materials, to impede water flowing down slopes.
A swale can be small - only a few inches high or it can be large -several feet high. The bigger the swale, the harder the work. Here's how you do it. In an area that has evidence of erosion (a small rivulet can eventually expand into an immense arroyo in desert soil), dig a small (six inches deep to several feet deep...you decide how hard you want to work), semi-circular trench with both ends of the semi-circle facing upslope.
The semi circle can be several feet in diameter, or 20 feet or more in diameter. Inside the trench, lay down rolled newspaper end to end. It doesn't have to be newspaper. I've used dead pinion twigs, straw or mulched plant material. Then, taking dirt from the inside of the semi-circle, cover the material.
As rainfall or snowmelt comes down the eroded area, it is impeded by the swale and absorbed by the dirt and material. The water will also bring down small bits of dirt and sand, and begin to fill in the semi-circle. Plant native wildflower seeds inside the semi-circle.(Right now is a good time to plant wildflowers).
As the wildflowers establish themselves, their roots will hold more and more soil around your swale, creating a lovely hillside desert oasis.
Berms are also very simple. When you plant something (particularly established plants you've purchased), build a small earthen or rock wall around the plant. The berm's diameter should be at least twice that of the container. The berm is there to retain water and mulch (I'll explain that in a later article) long enough for it to seep down to the plant's roots.
As you begin to think in water-wise terms, you're going to devise some interesting water conservation and water use methods of your own.
(Next article: An easy way to direct water directly to the roots of your trees, shrubs and plants.)
The copyright of the article Water and Desert Gardens in Desert Gardens is owned by Robert Dailey. Permission to republish Water and Desert Gardens in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
Comments
Mar 1, 2006 5:07 AM
Georgene A. Bramlage :
Robert,
It's very nice to see you here and read your first article :)
I hope you areenjoying the heat and sunshine of your Santa Fe garden. Gardeners in New England are still dreaming about spring.
Mar 16, 2006 6:07 PM
Barbara Nicholson Bell :
I visited Santa Fe several years ago and fell in love with the landscape. But it's hard to imagine not having lots of green grass and lush trees and shrubs around, as here in the Northeast. Perhaps that's why cities like Las Vegas must enforce restrictions on lawns and watering for residential neighborhoods. People moving to the Southwest from other parts of the country try to recreate what they had before - even though supposedly they "love" the desert environment!
Mar 16, 2006 7:31 PM
Robert Dailey :
That's true. People love the desert scenes, but they also want green lawns, sculptured shrubs, and lots of water. Some prefer, I believe, to view the desert from the comfort of their air conditioned homes.
Mar 19, 2006 7:49 PM
Reni Winter :
Hi Bob,
Do you have any idea if agave, the Century Plant variety, can grow in the Midwest where the winters get quite cold? I'm still young enough (barely) to possibly see it bloom in my lifetime if I plant one now. But don't know if it could survive. They're so remarkable when they bloom.
Reni
Mar 20, 2006 5:57 AM
Robert Dailey :
Hi, Reni. I agree with you about the Century Plant. I like it's blue-green succulent foliage, but the flowering candelabra stalk is the most striking aspect of this plant. The added attraction is that hummingbirds from miles around will zoom in to the plant when in bloom. There are many species of Agave, most of which come from the Chihuahuan and Sonoran deserts. There is only one species I know of that is cold-hardy to zone 4 - Agave Parryi. Zone 4 covers a great deal of the Midwest, and, unless you're in a true Zone 2 or 3 environment, A. parryi should do well. Just to be on the safe side, I'd plant it in a sunny area on the southside of your home, in a spot protected from the coldest winds. The plant likes lean, well-drained soil. As I said, there are a number of species of Agave, so I would make sure that you obtain A. parryi. One place I have found that provides this plant is <a href="http://www.highcountrygardens.com">High Country Gardens</a>. They also have a dynamite catalogue. Good luck. Let me know how your agave is doing.
